Post by jaxonc2 on Dec 3, 2003 17:34:48 GMT -5
The Air filter.
"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure".
Cleaning your bikes air filter should be done at least every 100 miles, 75 is better and in real dusty terrain even more frequently. When doing it – be careful to get as much dirt and debris out of the filter compartment as possible BEFORE removing the filter itself. An absorbent cloth works well for this.
Remove the filter so as not to damage the material and taking care not to dislodge any crud that could fall into the air intake manifold. Set the filter aside. Finish cleaning the filter compartment and then stuff a clean cloth into the intake manifold. This will help prevent any foreign matter from getting into the manifold while you are cleaning your filter.
Now pick up the filter. Check it carefully for any rips, holes, separated seams, or any other damage, especially around the sealing lip. If you find any of these, you should replace the filter. There’s no sense in cleaning a bad one.
Filters need to be cleaned thoroughly and household de-greasers are not enough. Specific water-based cleaning solvents are available at most bike shops and do the work very well. Diesel fuel, fuel oil, kerosene, … can be used also but avoid using gas just to make sure you don’t blow yourself up (or catch fire anyway).
While using your solvent on the air filter, take care not to get dirt from the outside of the filter onto the inside of it. Pour clean solvent through the foam from the inside through to the outside using small amounts at a time. If you need or wish to immerse the whole filter, avoid letting the dirty solvent spill over and into the inside.
After cleaning with solvent, you must get the solvent out. Flinging it downward works best, just don’t let go and drop it. DO NOT wring it out – this can destroy the integrity of the material. A careless blast from an air-compressor can produce an unwanted hole
and a useless filter. 
Avoid them also.
With the worst of the solvent gone, rinse the filter with a warm soap and water solution. This helps remove any remaining particles still trapped inside the foam and also removes the solvent that would otherwise break down filter oil, which gets applied later. A third rinse with plain water is optional. Shake out the water and allow the filter to dry. Once dry, your filter is ready for oiling.
One way to oil your filter is to dip it into a large opened container of oil until the thing is saturated and then squeezing out the excess. While effective – this way can cause problems. Squeezing can stress the material (just as in washing) and open the way for potential damage. Even without any damage, if too much excess oil remains in the filter fiber it could try to choke your machine until enough has been sucked into the engine to allow free breathing.
Try pouring just small amounts of oil at a time directly onto the material and gently work it in until the entire filter is covered. This ensures a more even application eliminating the need for wringing or squeezing and wasting oil.
The last step in cleaning your filter is preparing the seal. Apply a thin bead (1/16” to 1/8”) of grease all the way around the sealing lip, leaving no gaps, before installing the filter. This will prevent dirt from being pulled in through the contact point. Your filter is now ready to be installed. ;D
Remember to remove the cloth from the intake manifold. Make one more inspection of the compartment for any debris and wipe again if necessary. Carefully install the filter and fasten it down making sure that the sealing lip seats properly.
Close the compartment and you’re ready to ride.
An extra thought – taking an extra filter or to with you on campouts or even when you just ride can be a good idea. You can prepare them at home and carry them in a zip-loc bag.
Class dismissed
"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure".
Cleaning your bikes air filter should be done at least every 100 miles, 75 is better and in real dusty terrain even more frequently. When doing it – be careful to get as much dirt and debris out of the filter compartment as possible BEFORE removing the filter itself. An absorbent cloth works well for this.
Remove the filter so as not to damage the material and taking care not to dislodge any crud that could fall into the air intake manifold. Set the filter aside. Finish cleaning the filter compartment and then stuff a clean cloth into the intake manifold. This will help prevent any foreign matter from getting into the manifold while you are cleaning your filter.
Now pick up the filter. Check it carefully for any rips, holes, separated seams, or any other damage, especially around the sealing lip. If you find any of these, you should replace the filter. There’s no sense in cleaning a bad one.
Filters need to be cleaned thoroughly and household de-greasers are not enough. Specific water-based cleaning solvents are available at most bike shops and do the work very well. Diesel fuel, fuel oil, kerosene, … can be used also but avoid using gas just to make sure you don’t blow yourself up (or catch fire anyway).
While using your solvent on the air filter, take care not to get dirt from the outside of the filter onto the inside of it. Pour clean solvent through the foam from the inside through to the outside using small amounts at a time. If you need or wish to immerse the whole filter, avoid letting the dirty solvent spill over and into the inside.
After cleaning with solvent, you must get the solvent out. Flinging it downward works best, just don’t let go and drop it. DO NOT wring it out – this can destroy the integrity of the material. A careless blast from an air-compressor can produce an unwanted hole
and a useless filter. 
Avoid them also.With the worst of the solvent gone, rinse the filter with a warm soap and water solution. This helps remove any remaining particles still trapped inside the foam and also removes the solvent that would otherwise break down filter oil, which gets applied later. A third rinse with plain water is optional. Shake out the water and allow the filter to dry. Once dry, your filter is ready for oiling.
One way to oil your filter is to dip it into a large opened container of oil until the thing is saturated and then squeezing out the excess. While effective – this way can cause problems. Squeezing can stress the material (just as in washing) and open the way for potential damage. Even without any damage, if too much excess oil remains in the filter fiber it could try to choke your machine until enough has been sucked into the engine to allow free breathing.
Try pouring just small amounts of oil at a time directly onto the material and gently work it in until the entire filter is covered. This ensures a more even application eliminating the need for wringing or squeezing and wasting oil.
The last step in cleaning your filter is preparing the seal. Apply a thin bead (1/16” to 1/8”) of grease all the way around the sealing lip, leaving no gaps, before installing the filter. This will prevent dirt from being pulled in through the contact point. Your filter is now ready to be installed. ;D
Remember to remove the cloth from the intake manifold.
Make one more inspection of the compartment for any debris and wipe again if necessary. Carefully install the filter and fasten it down making sure that the sealing lip seats properly. Close the compartment and you’re ready to ride.
An extra thought – taking an extra filter or to with you on campouts or even when you just ride can be a good idea. You can prepare them at home and carry them in a zip-loc bag.
Class dismissed